on apricots & other fruit: for RW

I’m eating an apricot, actually two apricots from the basket I bought, and remembering that July after Ali’s wedding when we were having breakfast at the hotel and you loaded up on apricots because they were so juicy, saying, these Turkish apricots are wonderful. I never tasted apricots this sweet.

It was one of those moments that replays itself in my head every time I eat an apricot even though my first memories of apricots are of my mother who loved that particular fruit and said something similar whenever she was biting into one, though without the reference to Turkey because she had never gone there, or here, actually, since it is where I live now.

Fruit. I think of you a lot when I eat fruit. There were always different types of fruit on your kitchen table that you were slicing for me to eat. Watermelon, for instance, is something I can’t eat without remembering it was one of your favorites. You’d drink the juice from watermelons after eating a whole bowlful. I’d be picking the seeds out with my knife while you were digging in with abandon, savoring the smell of freshly cut watermelon.

There are certain types of fruit that I associate with people: green apples for one, bananas for another, cherries for my grandfather, grapefruit and prunes for my mother, and apricots, watermelon, Chinese pears, pomegranates, star fruit, dates for you. I imagine sitting in the breakfast nook of your kitchen in Bayside at around one in the am while you slice up fruit for me to eat with the tea and wine you have poured into our cups/glasses as we sit and talk after returning from the last show of a movie we saw in Manhattan. It seems you were always slicing fruit for me to eat with those beverages of choice in your kitchen. Maybe you were trying to counteract the wine, stuffing vitamins down my throat in an attempt to prolong my health, which, thankfully, has been the best of all my friends, as you’d like to point out, and possibly you thought you deserved some of the credit for that because of all that fruit, and vegetables, but that’s another story, you made sure I ate.

Love comes in many forms and feeding someone, slipping food onto their plate during meals, cooking favorite dishes, putting those lichee nuts or rapeseed into the grocery cart because you know they love them, well that’s a kind of love that goes beyond self into that sphere of concern for the well being of someone you wish will live a thousand years. It’s something mothers do, and wives and husbands, or at least the kind you want to marry because you know they treat food as if it were some sacred object, a special, holy gift that they are bestowing on you. And it is, since food is life, and as they pass that bowl of rice, that plate of tomatoes sprinkled with olive oil and basil, that bowl of cherries, that sliced apple and walnuts, that apricot, they are giving you hope for the future, a wish of long life, a dream of tomorrow.

And I think of you, my dear friend, as I eat my apricot and though we are thousands of miles apart and will, in all probability, never live in the same city again, I will not forget your acts of kindness, just as you seem never to forget mine, and the love we shared passes continually between us, from one apricot to the next, from my mouth, my heart, to yours.

still hungry after midnight in Istanbul

I guess you could say I’m lucky to be living in my neighborhood because, as my friend Maureen once said about living in Hollywood, you can always buy a quart of milk at two in the morning, I, too, can always get something to eat as I wander home from wherever it is I was, past midnight here in Moda/Kadikoy. And tonight, as I climbed the hill toward home, I had a craving for kokoreç, which I will not explain what that is lest I lose a few readers along the way.

Anyway, I had been to the movies with a friend and former colleague from my first college here in Istanbul, a movie I found about one hour and fifty minutes too long, but at least it was in 3D and I have never really seen a movie in 3D before, at least not totally in 3D, so this was interesting to me for about 10 minutes. Then we had cheesecake, or at least I had cheesecake, or what passes for cheesecake here which isn’t exactly the same thing when you’ve been raised on a variety of cheesecakes that have nothing in common with what was placed before me at this place in Taksim, but there was fruit on top so I ate it.

But I was still hungry coming home later, and needed something to take my mind of the kamikaze ride I had in the dolmuş (read mini-bus if you’re reading this outside of Turkey, which most of you are) and so I had kokoreç served on half a loaf of bread that’s similar to a loaf of Italian bread but is Turkish bread because that’s where I’m eating it and this seemed like a good idea considering the options, and I took it home to wash down with a can of beer that has been sitting in my refrigerator for about 8 months (I’m not a beer drinker and only bought it for a friend who came to visit one night and who didn’t drink it and I keep meaning to dispose of it somehow) since I asked for the kokereç spicy and that it was.

So I’m eating my kokoreç sandwich (called Yarım Ekmet Kokereç in case you come to Turkey and feel adventurous) but only after I gave the cat his portion of wet food from a can of Whiskers because he won’t give me any rest until I do that, and lo and behold I had this thought: I’m home.

This is the thing: I keep saying I’m home here and most times I’m mentally here but there are those moments when I’m emotionally here and eating that kokoreç sandwich last night at one am at my dining room table in my apartment in Moda with the cat in the other room, his cat’s room, eating his chicken bits, with my strange lamp with the various colored glass that I bought from Alex at his shop around the corner glowing on the end table and Pat Metheny’s September Fifteenth playing softly on the stereo in the living room behind me in my fleece-lined slippers thinking tomorrow is a holiday and I can, if I want, sleep late, was just such a moment.

And there you are, or actually here I am, content, at peace with the world. And it’s morning now, the world lighting up here on this side of the ocean and seas that lie between me and where I’m from, and that’s okay. I’ll wander around my neighborhhod later, have some ice cream from Ali Usta around dinner time and maybe take some pictures of this neighborhood that now occupies a special place in my heart, so I can send them to Chuck who keeps pestering me to do that, and know I’ll miss this neighborhood after I move more than I care to admit, but life goes on and we go with it and here, in Istanbul, is where I live, now, my home.

Easter Sunday in Istanbul

Okay, I know I shouldn’t be drinking this early in the morning but if I only did the things I should do and avoided all the things I shouldn’t do, I wouldn’t have done half the things I did do, which, some people in my life, my brother Johnny being one of them, would probably say that’s just the point.

Anyway, here I am having just finished a spinach pie for breakfast and yes, having a cup of spiked coffee and a glass of red wine to wash it down, and thinking I have no one to answer to for the things I do or don’t do so what the hell. I mean, it’s Easter Sunday back in my old world which is actually the new world but my old world while I sit here in my sweatpants and fleece-lined slippers in my new world which is actually the old world but it’s all pretty relative, isn’t it?

So my point being it is morning here in my new world but still evening, late evening, in my old world where I would be if I was going to celebrate Easter Sunday properly with my brothers, with Rita, with Steve, too, now that his sister lives in Florida and though he’s Jewish, he never passes up a holiday dinner, any holiday dinner, with people he loves, at George’s house where there’d be Robert’s tomato sauce with meatballs that rival our mother’s and hot and sweet sausage, broccoli with garlic and lemon, probably some fried pork George’s in-laws will bring from Chinatown on the way out to the Island, and Cecelia’s cheesecake for dessert, several bottles of red wine because they know I’ll be there and the kids watching Disney movies in the living room while we all bad mouth the Republicans and discuss healthcare and the Mets.

But I’m not there, but here, where it’s just another Sunday morning, a bit overcast, but I’m not going anywhere, and plan to spend the day rereading No One Writes To The Colonel because, you know, Marquez died on Thursday and I thought it appropriate to revisit him today, and then watch a few movies, maybe In The Heat Of The Night or Inside Man or the original Taking Of Pelham 123 because they’re so NY (the last two, not the Sidney Poitier film) and I sort of miss NY today having read an email from Rita thanking me for the flowers but mentioning the opera and wishing I was there and well, it’s mornings like this, when it should be Easter Sunday but isn’t that I do miss NY more than a little bit.

So I’ll drink my wine with coffee if I want to, eat some more hazelnuts, play some Miles Davis on the stereo in the living room and maybe, just maybe forget where I am, where I’ve been, and only think about where I’m going.

And that’s really what Easter is about, isn’t it? Rebirth. Like a phoenix, one rises from the ashes and flies once again.

on what passes for hamburgers in Turkey

Now I want to make it clear from the beginning that I am not a culinary snob or hung up on American cuisine which, as most people born somewhere else, seem to think is exemplified by the hamburger and hot dog (though the hot dog, or frankfurter, is actually German in origin but I must admit I am a bit of a snob when it comes to them but I’ll leave that for some other post). Hamburgers, though, should be judged by an objective panel who understands what constitutes the basic ingredients: ground beef, a bun, and ketchup, pickles and/onions optional.

So anyway, I’ve had 3 hamburgers now in 8 days here, which is a record for me since I didn’t eat 3 hamburgers in 8 days while living in the US, but that’s besides the point. The point here, or at least the one I’m trying to make in my usual way, is about what it’s like to eat what passes for hamburgers here in Turkey.

Now it started last weekend when I went to a former student’s (whom I have always been fond of) girlfriend’s art gallery. The art gallery, Space Debris Art, by the way, is new, as is the girlfriend who I found very charming, not only because she lived in the US for 10 years, and had been living in my grandparents’ old neighborhood of Williamsburg in Brooklyn, near, I might add, the best steak house in all the world, Peter Luger’s, or because she has an artistic nature, studied theatre, art, sculpture, etc and got her MFA in art from Parsons (my Uncle Dominic’s old alma mater) but because she is charming. And the reason I bring this up, and there is a reason, is because below her gallery is a cafe where the owner, who also studied in the US, is trying to duplicate American cafe cuisine, and the one thing he has introduced is the bagel, which, according to Seyhan Musaoglu (Tunc’s girlfriend, Tunc Suzer being the former student), who is his food taster and critic, he doesn’t quite have it right. I explained it’s the water, which she immediately thought could be the reason, and well, not to get too involved in all this, let me say that after the art gallery, Tunc and Paul Hallam (a fellow writer/expat living here who teaches at Istanbul University to keep the wolves at bay while he does the things that matter to him most) went to a bar Paul frequents and I drank some wine, had some of the cheese platter, and finally left to meet another former student, Baris Keser, who also worked as a tutor for me while getting his MBA at a college in NY where I ran the ESL program, in Taksim where I took him to a bar I know and he drank beer, I drank more wine, and we shared a platter of French fries.

Okay, the point. After consuming 2 bottles of wine over the course of the afternoon, early evening, I made my way back toward the ferry stop at Karakoy and spied the newly opened Fatburger here in the city. Now I can’t remember if they use the original one word spelling or separate it into two words–Fat Burger–because my mind is a little unclear about that part of the evening, but I do know that when my fatburger arrived, it did not taste like what my memory felt it should have tasted like, from way back in the 70s in LA (and for those of you who think that’s an awfully long time to remember accurately what something tastes like, well all I can say is that you never lose the memory of taste, smell, sight, sound, touch of the things we learn to love in this world, including hamburgers). Of course in those days there was just the one Fatburger on Western Avenue which Rip Crystal introduced me to. It was a bit of heaven to find something that deliciously juicy for you in a city devoted to being young, beautiful, and healthy.

But back to my story. So I was disappointed and swore I would never do that again, except I did do it again but not at Fatburger, but at Burger King in my neighborhood a few nights later, where they pronounce the Whooper as rhyming with cooper instead of the way we pronounce it as rhyming with hopper (“we” being people from the US who know about these things) and lo and behold, I’m disappointed again. It’s not that they have the size wrong, it’s just the taste is almost tasteless when compared to the way it tastes back in say Hempstead, NY.

Okay, so last night on the way back from watching a high school production of Oliver which I had to do a Steve Cohen on (Steve Cohen, my dear, dear friend who worked for 20 odd years as associate producer for Joe Papp at The Public Theatre in NYC was infamous for leaving plays after the first act) because I couldn’t stand it any longer and on the way home, I stopped at Bambi Burger because for 4 years now I’ve been passing this place and wondering just what a Bambi Burger would taste like. Well, I tasted it last night and still do not know what I ate. I mean, apart from the potato salad with peas, pickles, tomatoes, and I think mayonaise, there was something that looked like meat but it was reddish in color, and I could not distinquish a taste. It was certainly not hamburger, but hey, this is a country where they put ketchup and mayonaise on your table when serving pizza.

Okay, so here’s my point. Some food does not necessarily transfer well from one place to another, and if you don’t believe me, ask Rita Wu who will tell you most Chinese food even in places like NYC are what she calls “junk” Chinese food, changed to appease American taste buds. There’s something lost in the translation, sotospeak. Think Mexican food in the US served at Taco Bell, for instance. Or what passes for pizza in Ohio.

Now there is one place that does serve a pretty good hamburger, though it’s a bit dry which breaks your heart when you bite into it and do not get the grease you’re expecting, but it’s the best I’ve found here so far. It’s in Hamburger Haven a block up from the Rex Theatre on Bar Street in Moda in case you come to Istanbul in the near future. It’s not quite the real thing, and thank God no one has dared tried to open up a White Castle here because heaven only knows what that will be like (and I know my brother Johnny and his wife Cecelia, who both have their birthday dinners at White Castle each year, would be outraged), but it’s the closest thing to a hamburger that I’ve found.

But you know, it’s kind of like that bagel in Karakoy. The people making them are trying to do the right thing, their hearts are in the right places, and it’s close but no cigar, as we like to say. I think it just has to be the water.

where home is

A walk around my neighborhood any day of the week puts my mind at ease. Today I didn’t go in to work, having spent the last two nights reliving memories death always conjures, so I took a walk, or rather limp since I fell yesterday running to catch the ferry and this body is slow in recovering, but anyway, a limp around the neighborhood to sort of ground myself again in the present tense of my life, rather than the past. And there it was, a nice, fairly sunny day, and I sat at the tea garden overlooking the Sea of Marmara, to rest my aching toe and my shoulder, and watched ships out at sea, had a Turkish coffee without sugar, then two glasses of cay and let myself be lulled into a peaceful state of mind.

I find there has been turmoil in my mind these last several months, thoughts of leaving, going back to The States, perhaps, or to another city in Turkey, Izmir, which is much more manageable than Istanbul, even thoughts of Naples, though on an internet search I could find no suitable employment there, but the idea of having broccoli rabe and sausage on a weekly basis, along with white clam sauce and linguine, does still appeal to me. I’m still torn emotionally about America. Sure, I miss those I love back there, my brothers, my friends, Rita, Steve & Ren in NY, David upstate, Gene in New Haven, Jimmy sunning himself in Puerto Vallarta now and posting numerous pictures on facebook to prove it, Randy in Seattle, the two Chucks in San Francisco, and Maureen and Carl in LA. Sure, I would like to be in a place where I could easily see them as frequently as I wanted, and needed, to. And the numerous people I love from the old ELI, Gilda, Jenny, Maria, Fernando, Jia Ling, the list too long to reproduce here. But my heart is still torn, perhaps never to heal properly, by others I helped so unselfishly who had a hand in dismantling all that I accomplished.

So I still linger here, where there are a few people who actually appreciate me, perhaps even understand me a bit, and there is time to write without the distractions of New York, though I miss some of those distractions–the theatre, films, the restaurants, the hum of Manhattan–but of all the many places I’ve lived, I find this neighborhood heads the list of favorites. And I have my opera house here which I go to several times during the season, and now have found two theatre companies within walking distance and so have seen Cyrano last week and will see Hamlet on Sunday. And though they’re in Turkish, I know the plays well enough to not only understand them, but to enjoy the acting, the production. And I have my neighborhood restaurants here, my barber, dry cleaner, fish market, fruit carts, grocery stores, my friendly pharmacy. It’s a world complete for me, and I feel so comfortable here I wonder why I would want to leave.

So though I’m not necessarily as happy as I was at work, it may be time to either change jobs or change the job into what I want (as my favorite Uncle Mike would say). I have a close friend returning to Istanbul soon so the conversations about books that I miss so much, about film, are not far away. These next few months are important in terms of decision-making for me and so I must also consider this neighborhood, my life here on weekends especially when I am completely at home, as a factor. And now, as I pause to grill some fish I bought earlier in the week from the fish stalls in Kadikoy and saute some spinach, to settle back to watch an episode from the Inspector Montalbano series I love so much, I feel at peace, even though there is no one special here to celebrate this day, this weekend with, but myself. But as a waiter once told me many years ago, “Better to be alone than in bad company.”

How true that is. How true it always was.

a conversation while looking for olives in a Greek salad

They heard me speaking English to the waiter while trying to understand what peppersteak “easy” was exactly and even after having eaten it, I am still unsure. But that’s getting ahead of myself, as usual, so I’ll get back to the two young women, one smoking a cigarette and holding it like it might bite and the other one, the one who does most of the talking, keeps playing with her hair and adjusting the shawl the establishment has draped over the chairs in an effort to alleviate the cold. And she asks, as I’m trying to locate the pieces of black olives in my Greek salad, “Where are you from?”

“New York,” I say, as I always say, thinking of myself as a NYer first and an American second, then add, “But I live in Istanbul now,” and don’t add that I’m looking to relocate.

It’s then the one with the shawl tells me she lived in America for nine months while taking some courses at NYU and living with her sister in Fort Lee, New Jersey. “Funny,” I say, “you don’t look Japanese,” and watch the joke sail over their heads which reminds me once again to keep one’s audience in mind when trying to be funny.

She goes on to tell me about America while I try to eat without appearing rude,her friend remaining quietly absorbed in her cigarette and I do my best to nod, ask appropriate questions, give nonverbal signals to demonstrate how attentive I am, and manage to find what appears to be remnants of what was once black olives.

Then she becomes the expert on America as so many people who have had what can only be referred to as limited exposure to the country seem to be. But she is not critical, in fact almost in awe, as she says, “So many people from all over the world living in such harmony.”

“Only in New York,” I say, then add, “and San Francisco,” and try not to think of all the problems immigrants face daily in so many places in between. But she goes on singing America’s praises and my mind drifts off beyond the salad and “easy” peppesteak to an America I know all too well. It’s then her mostly silent friend says, “You have the saddest eyes.”

And suddenly she becomes more interesting than she was before, except I think there’s not much to build upon beyond what is most likely just a casual observation.

And the conversation, or rather monologue of the expert on America continues until I pay my bill, wish them a good evening, and take my sad eyes back to the hotel bar and then eventually to bed.

Remembering Moondog and Some Others on a Sunday morning in Istanbul

I was remembering Moondog this morning, this blind musician/poet who dressed as a viking and wandered the city streets reciting poetry, playing music, and scaring the wits out of drunk teenagers like me who just happened to bump into him when rounding a corner in the West 50s. The first time I was with Henry Munoz and Alvin Miller and we had spent several hours after acting class in the Blarney Stone eating those greasy cornbeef sandwiches and drinking draft beer spiked with rye whiskey that Julian Richards always smuggled in under his coat. Anyway, Alvin was going off to catch the D train to Carnesie, if I remember correctly, and Henry was walking with me to 34th Street where he would get the E or F train back to Jackson Heights and I would catch the LIRR home and boom. Right smack into this viking. I mean, man, that’ll sober you up pretty quickly. Of course, later I found out he was a sort of West Side celebrity and even appeared on the Tonight Show with Johnny Carson playing some of his compositions. And since so much of my time was spent in the West 50s because that’s where the acting schools I attended were located, I ran into Moondog on more than a few occasions and, like all New Yorkers, quickly accepted all strange and unusual things as normal.

But this is about more than Moondog, naturally. It’s about the faces I woke up this morning staring at me from the various corners of my rooms. I mean, I literally trip over these people and playing You Were On My Mind by the We Five on repeat mode on my compact stereo system in the den doesn’t help matters. I will, no doubt, before I finish with this piece switch to Go Now by The Moody Blues and then some early Kinks like You Really Got Me because I really am going somewhere in my head.

Now my senior year of high school changed the trajectory of my life and I wrote about this previously in a piece called, quite appropriately, My Senior Year of High School, but I’m going to revisit that year and a few prior to it and maybe one or two afterwards because they all explain how a working class kid like me ended up not just here in Turkey but at the end of what could only be referred to as an eventful life, one I probably wouldn’t have lived if it hadn’t been for those rock & roll shows at the Brooklyn Fox that Murray The K put together and where I saw Stevie Wonder for the first time do Fingertips Parts 1 & 2 , Ronnie & the Ronettes swing their long hair as they sang Be My Baby, the Shangri-Las doing Leader of the Pack, and countless other acts that graced that stage for a song or two. ‘Cause it was my clowning afterwards that led Jimmy Hanley to suggest I become an actor which led to that year commuting into the city at night to not just attend classes but to become friends with people like Henry and Alvin and fall under the influence of Lee Stanleigh, fall hopelessly in love with Karen Deene and get drunk too often with Big Ed and Julian. Life is pretty funny, isn’t it?

So here I am on a Sunday morning in Istanbul postponing packing my carry-ons for my week’s vacation starting tomorrow in Izmir thinking about these ghosts from my past and listening to the We Five singing “I got wounds to bind”.

So here’s the dog story ’cause no early morning or late night stroll among these ghosts is complete without my dog nudging my elbow and climbing into my lap. We had just adopted him from the ASPCA on 91st Street and drove over in my Volkswagon to visit my brother George and his girlfriend, eventually to become his first wife, Lily, in their apartment on East 5th Street. Frodo, the dog named after yes, the trilogy George and I read together, is maybe 8 weeks old and not in total control of his bladder so George is laying down parts of the Sunday NY Times on the kitchen floor while Frodo is looking for a place to do his business. And, of course, he backs up next to George and lets go on George’s brand new desert boots which, of course, made us all laugh, including George, and endeared us all to what would become, before this damned cat came into my life, the number one animal in my life. Now this cat, Noir, has not displaced Frodo in my heart but he has somehow managed to settle in next to him. Anyway, I was thinking about Frodo this morning, too, and almost tripped over him in the hall going for my second cup of coffee of the day.

But back to the mid sixties, not the early seveties, and there’s Steve Cohen asking me who Wiley is. You see, I kept mentioning Wiley in conversation and he couldn’t quite figure out who this woman was, and I had to explain it was Jane, Wiley being her last name, which, after we were married I insisted she keep. Maybe because I liked the sound of it on my tongue but actually because of Steve’s mother Grace who said over breakfast at his parents’ house that she went from being her father’s daughter to her husband’s wife without ever having an identity of her own. And that so impressed me that I swore I would never let any woman I loved ever lose her identity in mine. Now I have a lot of memories where Jane is concerned and some have worked their way into some of the poems but this is not about her because if any woman hovers over my shoulder this morning it’s Karen Deene. She tousles my hair as I sit studying my lines for my scenes with Ed in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof and she will be the vision of Maggie the Cat in my mind even though I’ll play it with another actress named, quite coincidentally, Jane and who would French kiss me when we did the Rainmaker together and run her hand across my crotch in rehearsal and I often wonder why I didn’t follow up on those leads, her being a good ten years older than me but quite willing to initiate me into the joys of her bed which, I might add, the owner of the school enjoyed himself, so age was not something she seemed to care much about. But I was hung up on Karen and when I am hung up on a woman, whomever she might be, no one else can distract me, especially if it’s reciprocated. So Karen was, in my eyes, Maggie and I played it for her. I remember holding hands with her, having her lean into me on the street, in the seat next to me in class because she always managed to sit next to me, the whiff I would get of her perfume, the way her long hair almost touched her waist, her laugh, that smile that lit up a room when I gave her the Worry Stone I bought for her in The Village so she could rub away all the things that were troubling her.

I don’t know how I lost those people, how they slipped away and now only return in those hours between 12:00:01 am to midnight, which, as you can see, pretty much covers all waking sleeping hours of my life. My college friends are still with me for the most part, but these people from my high school years are gone, only Maureen somehow managing to reappear many years later in LA but that is, as they say, another story.

Where’s Joey Parker, for instance? Or Kevin Mahoney? The last time I saw Joey he stopped his car in front of Temple Emmanuel to say hello to me as I crossed the street and he knew I was in college, something far from any dreams of his, and he said, on parting, “Make it, man. Just make it.” And to this day I wonder just what he thought making it could be. Would he think I made it now? Here, in self-imposed exile, far from the people who care for me because the wounds, those still open wounds, are a long time healing. And you, Joey, sitting in your car, blowing air bubbles with your tongue, the muffler needing to be replaced, your right hand resting on the Hurst shifter, ready to roar off down whatever streets you roam looking for peace in your soul, where are you now? You the most loyal of friends, who took 43 stitches in the face standing up for a friend of mine. You, Joey? And Kevin, looking up surprised in the auto parts store when I came in with my brother Johnny who was trying to repair that damned van I bought to go camping all over the West in. That baby-faced smile, that little laugh you always had when the world surprised you, still with the hair curling at your collar, the sweatshirt and jacket not able to conceal the brawn of your body, the tension in your neck. Where are you, Kevin, old friend?

I don’t know. I bump into these people in my hall, in the elevator at school, while walking the ancient streets of Balat, sitting on a bench looking out at the Sea of Marmara, thousands of miles away but they still find me. Still vivid and young, still staring life in the face. Some other blogger wrote you can’t live in the past or the future but only in the present, as if those other times were a waste of energy and took us away from the moment we should be cherishing. But the past is always there, coloring the present, affecting the future. We can’t avoid it, nor should we. It is what has made us who we are and if we are not displeased with what we became, then the past is something we should not only acknowledge but embrace. And my past, these ghosts that follow me halfway around the world, are not intrusions. They are part of me just as the books I have read, the films, the plays I’ve seen, the music I’ve listened to, the art and photography that have moved me, the eyes of the people I have known, the sound of voices, laughter, tears, my father’s lost dreams, my grandmother’s espresso, my grandfather’s love of cherries, my mother’s collection of odd shaped bottles, and Joey’s scars, Karen’s long hair, Ed’s drunken ramblings about the Old West, Lee’s passion, Henry’s guilt, the musical lithe of Julian’s speech, all are embedded in my heart, my mind.

And so here, on a Sunday morning in a city 2500 years old, I, too, try to come to peace with my past. Wounds. Troubles. You on my mind. Yeah, don’t we all have these?

on the new year

Meric calls me from New York, from the house I still own, though that is passing into history, and says, Happy New Year, even though for him it is a little over 6 hours away. And we talk, we laugh, we discuss the future, and he says it must be a strange time for you, living there now with all that is going on, the youth protesting, the scandals, the polarization of the population, the Turkish mentality. And I say it reminds me of America in the sixties, the same divisions, the same egotistical, paranoid leader dividing the country over a war we could not win. The only difference, I say, about the scandal that brought him down was it was about the abuse of power, where here it’s about that and money, too. And we talk of the hope we both have for Turkey, of his desire to return so his children will be raised here, near their grandparents, their families. And it warms my heart to hear his voice, to have this conversation, to be connected over the thousands of miles with a dear friend.

And I think about this new year and how it is a pivotal year in the lives of so many people I care about, I love. Jobs hang in the balance, or at least the prospect of jobs, the uncertainy of life, pathways once thought secure are no longer so, health issues raise their ugly heads, death has come and gone and dwindled the number of people I know, and new souls are stirring within wombs which will soon see the light of day in this new year. And a spirit of renewal, of hope, permeates the air.

And as I sit with my last glass of champagne from the bottle I have consumed in my private celebration of what has passed and what is before me, I hear drums in the air, sirens, voices chanting, and I think it is a new day, a new year, a new time to be alive, and feel what millions have felt before me on days such as this as one year melted into another. Life isn’t always what we want but it isn’t always something to fear, either. It is just life, rare and beautiful, something to cherish, to hold in our hands, taste with our mouths, embrace with our minds and our hearts.

Bring it on, I say, let it come. For the changes that will surely happen, for the people who will enter my life and the people I will leave behind. C’mon, life. Give me your best shot. I’m ready.

this thing called faith

So I’m in this discussion about faith which has not exactly been my forte but which I’m finding myself thinking about more and more these days. Anyway, it’s with some of my teachers and somewhere in the conversation I relay a story about a former Turkish student I had in the US who was upset when I referred to a character in a Gabriel Garcia Marquez story (The Handsomest Drowned Man in the World) as a metaphor for a prophet. This particular student, whose name I can no longer recall, objected to anyone being called prophet except Muhammad because in the Muslim faith, Muhammad was the last prophet. And to be a true Muslim, you had to accept that as fact. I said that the same was true of all religions, that there were things one must accept as fact to be a true believer, such as The Immaculate Conception in the Roman Catholic religion or the belief in the Trinity. For what is faith but a belief in what cannot be proven. A belief in miracles, in angels, in devils, too. In life after death where one meets those who have gone before. In peace, in justice, in love.

Anyway the conversation went on and I was half in, half out since my mind was going back in time to the weekend and my conversation with Chuck Thegze about this very same thing and his Jesuit upbringing. His faith is always admirable and I am once again struck by the fact that I once had faith but somehow, perhaps with the death of my father, or perhaps before that, drifted off into the mist of doubt.

In the Catholic religion, when one sins, one can get absolution by confession. The priest gives you penance and after you complete it, you are back in a state of grace. I never much cared for confession, nor thought the 10 Hail Marys and 10 Our Fathers plus a good Act of Contrition was much in terms of penance. To me, penance was my grandfather dying from Parkinson’s Disease on the dining room table and crying out, “Sweet Jesus, this is some penance you gave me.” That suffering seemed more appropriate, though not for my grandfather who deserved better, or less depending on which angle you looked at it, in terms of penance. For penance is, in my eyes, an act of atonement, which is something I do know quite a bit about.

Anyway, to get back to the present, this business of faith keeps cropping up in my thoughts lately, say for the last several years, and though I have always considered myself a moral person, there have been times I have slipped, I have faltered. And at those times, I have always come to some decision as to how I would atone for that moral laxity.

So here I am atoning. This is no 10 Hail Marys, 10 Our Fathers, a good Act of Contrition type of penance, but a sacrifice, for how else does one prove to whomever is listening that you are sincere in your act of atonement if you do not sacrifice something? I’m not in the habit of slaughtering sheep or cows or chickens, but I am in the habit of giving up something to get something back. So I am giving up something for a considerable length of time to get back God’s trust. To show that I am worthy of that trust. That I am atoning for my lack of faith by making a commitment to regain it.

I don’t know how this will look in the eyes of others, but honestly I don’t really care. This is between God and me. A pledge, sotospeak. And a way of demonstrating that I am serious. I am, after all, a descendant of working class stock. And we of that class know you don’t get anything for nothing. There’s always a price one must pay. So I’m anteing up. I’m doing my best to reclaim this thing I seemed to have misplaced: this thing called faith. And putting all my chips into the pot, expecting to one day find myself with the one true love of my life, whoever she may prove to be, in the great beyond with my grandfather, my two fathers, my aunts, my uncles, sitting around the table as my mother dances a tarantella and my grandmother serves up the raviolis, homemade red wine, strong espresso, Sinatra and strings, a celebration, there where my faith brings me: home.

a weight on the heart

I was at the home of one of my teachers who I am quite fond of and her mother was coaxed into telling fortunes from the grinds in a cup of Turkish coffee, which is a popular form of fortune telling here. I don’t usually subject myself to these things, since they conjure up memories of my mother’s friend, Mrs. Saks, who told fortunes with cards and would periodically come to the house to read my mother’s fortune. I mean, as kids we are all somewhat fascinated with guessing the future, but I have enough trouble reconciling the past and dealing with the present these last few decades to worry too much about the future. I just always figure it will take care of itself.

Anyway, back to the coffee cup. Her mother was telling our fortunes, the three of us teachers there, and so I went along with it and had mine told, too. I really don’t remember the details except one sentence: that there was a weight on my heart. I think she suggested I go to a church and light a candle to pray for it to be lifted, which, I must confess, I did yesterday while waiting for my barber to finish eating at both his and my favorite restaurant so he could give me my monthly haircut. So I guess you could say I knew there was truth in that statement because I have been feeling a weight on my heart for quite some time now.

Interestingly I also had the second conversation with Mete, the director of my college, yesterday in the garden while I was on break from my class. He sat next to me on the bench I was occupying and asked me what was wrong. This is the second time he has asked that in about a week’s time. He wanted to know why I was so sad lately and asked what was troubling me. Usually I avoid answering questions like that, make a joke, or get vague on people, but yesterday, I don’t know, his concern came right after a student I like a lot sat and asked me why I was always alone and did I feel out of place here in Turkey. And yes, I said, I did. And I also told Mete that many things were troubling me but one in particular was that I was so misunderstood in this country and so felt out of place. I paraphrased Clarence Darrow which caused me to go back to my old notebook and get the quote right to post later that day. He seemed to understand and asked who was misunderstanding me and I, of course, feeling somewhat vulnerable, answered honestly everyone in this country, including the people at this college. People here just don’t seem to get me right.

Another teacher, one of the ones whose fortune was also told last Saturday, and who is the closest thing to a friend I have here in Istanbul, keeps reminding me that we foreigners are always misunderstood here (she’s a foreigner, too) because Turks don’t understand the concept of friendship between people, especially between men and women, the old and the young, foreigner and native, like Russians and Americans do. There is some sort of suspicion about it, that it has underlying reasons, a hidden agenda, say, and so can’t be real. And I came to realize once again why I miss my country these days. It isn’t actually the country but my friends there, both old and young, male and female, former classmates, colleagues, students, staff who I’ve loved as a friend and who have loved me as one in return. The many who have not thought there was anything unnatural about the attention and support I gave them. The many, who unlike the people here, appreciate and value a person like me and who I taught so much to, learned so much from, for friendship is always a two way street.

So this weight that has been laying on my heart for quite some time now will most likely never be lifted as long as I am away from the very people who can lift it. And yet to return, from this self-imposed exile, is not an easy thing to do. For there was betrayal back there, jealousies, pettiness, that has left a bitterness that still exists in my heart, too. I’ve dealt with pettiness and jealousy before and I’m tired of being judged by people who don’t read books, experience poetry, listen to great music, appreciate art, go to foreign films, are not open to the world beyond their own cultures and their limited, provincial minds.

A dilemma, I guess, and one I’ve been trying to work through for what seems like months now. Perhaps I am destined to live with this weight on my heart for I have to admit sadness is not exactly alien to me. Candles will probably not help, nor will I expect people to change here, nor will I. I am, as I’ve often told people, and who my old friends will admit to being also, a dinosaur just lumbering along, looking for that patch of ground where I can lie down and find peace. I thought it might be in Europe somewhere, and it still might be here yet, but most likely it will not be among these people, or at least not the ones I know now.

And so I must learn to bear it as best I can, forget these narrow-minded people who are mostly around me, and take some solace in the fact that I can be peaceful in my neighborhood, can find peace when I travel, can find peace in a good book, in the completion of a good piece of writing, in a meal I’ve cooked, at a restaurant where the waiters know my name. All that may not lift the weight, but I’ve been carrying this weight around for a long time now, and only lack the companionship, the friends who would let me forget it momentarily in good conversation, a glass of wine, and laughter through the night.

If people can’t see me for who I am, but suspect me of somehow being less than honest, impure in my motives, than they are not worth talking to, spending time with, giving attention and encouragement to. And I say the hell with them. I just don’t have that many years left to squander on people too blind or dumb or narrow-minded to appreciate what I have to offer. Life is becoming increasingly short and thus precious for me and I place too much value on what I am to waste it on the undeserving. So I’ll pull back from those who can’t tell the difference between fool’s gold and the real thing and seek out kindred spirits like those I left behind in the US when I came here. I know, having spent two hours in a deep, fulfilling conversation with a man I hope to be doing more with in the future, that other dinosaurs like me still exist in the world and other young people are still open to partake of what we have accumulated over the years.

Those of you who know me from my LA and NY days, who know of how I’ve always tried to expand horizons of others from my time with the Boy Scouts to the bookstore through my work with my beloved immigrants to now, know the moral code I try to live by and the price one pays to live by it, know who and what I am. And, of course, it strikes me as ironic that I am so misunderstood when all someone would have to do is read the books I write, or read the personal pieces I write here on this blog about my life to know I have spent my whole adult life trying to help people without expecting very much, apart from an occasional nod of appreciation, in return. My character is demonstrated by what I have done, is reflected in the prose style I have developed over the years, is, therefore, in deed as well as words. There is no mystery to who I am, nor to my motives in doing what I do. I am that part missionary, part maverick who was branded as such by those who got to know me all my life. And those of you who have read these personal pieces on this blog and have come to understand and identify with this pull and push between the missionary and the maverick can comprehend why a weight can lay heavy on one’s heart.

But I must learn to look past these times toward another future. And if I can’t create the friendships here that I have back there than maybe it will be time to reconsider returning. I just know I’m no longer happy where I work because of changes in policies and the misunderstandings of those I work with which leads me to remembering what my Uncle Mike once said, when you don’t like your job, you either change it into one you can like or you change jobs. That’s a thought to contemplate but for now, though, I’ll just focus on the week’s vacation I’m taking as of sunrise.

So I’ll go off to Italy tomorrow, with a few good books to keep me company, to eat the food I grew up with, to sit on balconies of the hotel rooms I’ve reserved with views of the sea, to listen to stirring music in an opera house, to visit my great grandfather’s home, to see great art, walk ancient streets, be surrounded by a people with warmth in their hearts who will not judge me, and remember what I have learned about life: you take whatever joy you can find when you can, where you can, and however you can. And the hell with the rest.